Needless to say we all slept in until well after 0800 this morning and it was a rather slow start to the day. By 1000 we were making our way into town. It was a relatively short walk across a road bridge into the heart of the city, which we entered via Port De L’Oulle, one of the several gateways piercing the ramparts, built by the popes in the 14th century, which still encircle the city.
Taking in a view of the city with the famous ‘Pont’ in the distance
Avignon is one of the most ancient towns in Europe. The origins of the city date back to 3000 BC. One thousand years later an important Neolithic town took up the banks of the Rhone. During the Roman Empire the city was known as Avenio and already had more than 27,000 inhabitants. After several barbarian invasions, the city became independent in the 12th century. Governed by rich locals and under the authority of the Bishop the city became a trade center. During this prosperous period, the bridge on the river, the Cathedral and the double walls were erected.
We made our way through the winding, cobbled streets to Palais des Papes (the Papal Palaces) which, along with the historic centre of Avignon, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The palace was begun in 1316 by John XXII and continued by succeeding popes through the 14th century, until 1370 when it was finished.
The Palaces as viewed from the forecourt
Avignon became the residence of the Popes in 1309, when Pope Clement V, unwilling to face the violent chaos of Rome after his election (1305), moved the Papal Curia (administrative apparatus of the Holy See and central governing body of the entire Catholic Church) to Avignon. Clement lived as a guest in the Dominican monastery at Avignon, and his successor Pope John XXII set up a magnificent establishment there, but the reconstruction of the old bishops' palace was begun in earnest by Pope Benedict XII (1334–42) and continued by his successors to 1364. The site, on a natural rocky outcrop at the northern edge of Avignon, overlooking the river Rhone, was that of the old episcopal palace of the bishops of Avignon. The Palais was built in two principal phases with two distinct segments, known as the Palais Vieux (Old Palace) built by Benedict XII and Palais Neuf (New Palace) built by his successor Clement VI. The building was enormously expensive, consuming much of the papacy's income during its construction.
Le Cloitre Benoit XII (The Cloisters)
The Grand Tinel (Magnum Tinellum)
It was here that banquets were held on feast days, for instance when a cardinal was appointed or a Pope crowned. On days of abstinence or ordinary days, the Pope was served in the Petit Tinel. This enormous hall is well lit on the East side by six windows opening out onto the gardens. Its wood-panelled, balled-vaulted ceiling was reconstructed in the seventies and gives only a vague idea of what it was like in the 14th century. Indeed, at Clement VI’s request, blue fabric studded with gold stars covered the vault to create a celestial arch. The decor was destroyed by fire in 1413, as were the frescoes of religious subjects, which once adorned the walls.
Some of the mouldings on display in The North Sacristy
La Grande Audience
The popes departed Avignon in 1377, returning to Rome, but this prompted the Papal Schism during which time the antipopes Clement VII and Benedict XIII made Avignon their home until 1403. Although the Palais remained under papal control (along with the surrounding city) for over 350 years afterwards, it gradually deteriorated despite a restoration in 1516. When the French Revolution broke out in 1789 it was already in a bad state when it was seized and sacked by revolutionary forces. In 1791 it became the scene of a massacre of counter-revolutionaries, whose bodies were thrown into the Tour des Latrines in the Palais Vieux. The Palais was subsequently taken over by the Napoleonic French state for use as a military barracks and prison. It was only vacated in 1906, when it became a national museum. It has been under virtually constant restoration ever since.
We spent time touring the Palaces soaking up the history. In the words of a well travelled five year old “Yes, there were some impressive monuments.”
From the Papal Palaces we made our way through the now quite crowded city uphill through the Rocher Des Domes, which is situated at the summit of Doms Rock. This garden, laid out in 1830, was a colossal undertaking at the time; it hides a reservoir that once supplied the city with water. It also had fantastic views across the Rhône and also of the Papal Vine Yards. Today it was a welcome relief from the heat offering shady terraces and man made grottos and fountains
We next made our way back into the heart of town where the kids where rewarded their patience with a ride on a carousel. It was then time to find somewhere for lunch. Feeling the need for a sit down and some shade we chose the café of Lou Mistrou, which offered both. Nathan and I were refreshed over some Panaches (turned out to be a fancy name for a shandy) while Zac declared camembert to be his favourite cheese and Abbey decided to eat her baguette full length like Shaggy (of Scooby Doo fame). After a very relaxing lunch we bought gelato from a nearby vendor and wandered through town towards the Pont.
The day was now quite hot at 29 degrees (particularly hot compared to the English summer!) as we made our way to the famous Saint Bénézet Bridge.
The bridge originally spanned the Rhône River between Avignon and Villeneuve-les-Avignon on the left bank. It was built between 1171 and 1185, with an original length of some 900 m, but it suffered frequent collapses during floods and had to be reconstructed several times. Over the centuries, it became increasingly perilous as arches collapsed and were replaced by rickety wooden sections. The bridge was finally put out of use by a catastrophic flood in 1668, which swept away much of the structure. It was subsequently abandoned and no more attempts were made to repair it. Since then, its surviving arches have successively collapsed or been demolished, and only four of the initial 22 arches remain intact today.
The bridge's construction was inspired by Saint Bénézet, a local shepherd boy, who, according to tradition, was commanded by angels to build a bridge across the river. Although he was ridiculed at first, he dramatically "proved" his divine inspiration by miraculously lifting a huge block of stone. He won support for his project from wealthy sponsors who formed themselves into a Bridge Brotherhood to fund its construction. After his death, he was interred on the bridge itself, in a small chapel standing on one of the bridge's surviving piers on the Avignon side. The bridge was also the site of devotion by the Rhône boatmen, whose patron saint was Saint Nicholas. They initially worshipped in the Chapel of Saint Nicholas on the bridge itself (where Saint Bénézet's body was also interred) but the increasing dilapidation of the bridge led to the clergy refusing to preside over services for fear of a total collapse. A new chapel was erected on dry land in the 18th century at the foot of the bridge, on the Avignon side.
Saint Bénézet's bridge is commemorated by the French children's song, “Sur le pont d’Avignon” ("On the bridge of Avignon”) In fact people would have danced beneath the bridge (sous le pont) as the bridge itself is far too narrow to have accommodated dancers.
The lyrics of which are as follows:
Sur le pont d'Avignon
L'on y danse, l'on y danse
Sur le pont d'Avignon
L'on y danse tous en rond
On the bridge of Avignon
They are dancing, they are dancing,
On the bridge of Avignon
They are dancing all around.
Les bell' dames font comm' ça
Et puis encore comm' ça
The pretty dames go this way
And then again go that way.
Chorus
Les beaux messieurs font comm' ça
Et puis encore comm' ça
The handsome gentlemen go this way.
And then again go that way.
Chorus
Looking back towards the bridge
We spent time walking the length of the bridge listening to the commentary provided until the heat of the day started to take its toll on everyone. It was then a short walk up the river to a free ferry service that took us back to the camping ground side (the camp ground was actually located on a large island) and we were able to make our way back on foot.
It was now definitely time for a swim. What was very noticeable this afternoon was the distinct lack of supervision of the rather large crowd with kids jumping into far too shallow water and ball sports galore (After being hit in the side of the face by one rather hard ball Nathan made sure it was not available for further use!) After a rest and some afternoon tea the kids managed to squeeze in one final swim before we dragged them to the showers (kicking and screaming – they have turned far too British!) and we ate a late dinner. We then went for a long walk/scooter before heading to bed in the blessedly peaceful surrounds.
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