Countries: Breakfast in Liechtenstein, dinner in Switzerland (Vaduz to Lauterbrunnen)
We all slept in until 8am (me with a little help from my magic avomine pills). Now a well-oiled team we were all packed up and ready to leave for 9am. The plan was that I would walk down to pick up the deposit we had had to leave for a power adapter and Nathan would drive the van down and meet me. I fulfilled my part and was a little surprised when I came out of reception and did not see them waiting for me. Fearing the worst I made my way back up to our site and, sure enough, there was our van being pushed out of the boggy ground by two Dutch men. I felt it would be rude to take photos so had no choice but to help push (unfortunately I do not do manual cars so could not relieve Nathan of his driving duties). We still had little luck shifting the van – I had not realised how sloping the entrance to the site was and now, given last night’s rain, it was unforgiving. One more Dutch man later and with some wheel mats courtesy of a Dutch woman and we were good to go. So, how many Dutch men does it take to move a van?
We drove the short distance into Vaduz itself intending to spend a few hours looking around. We were also keen to find a bank to withdraw some Franks as our destination today was Switzerland. Vaduz is the capital of the principality of Liechtenstien and the seat of the national parliament. The town, located along the Rhine, has about 5,100 inhabitants. While Vaduz is better known internationally, it is not the largest town in the principality. Neighbouring Schaan has a greater population. We managed to find easy parking just up from the Cathedral and could then follow a pedestrian walkway into the heart of the city. Let’s be clear here, it was tiny and had very expensive shops!
Vaduz Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Florin (St. Florinskirche in Vaduz or Kathedrale St. Florin) was built in 1873 on the site of earlier medieval foundations. Its patron saint is Florunus of Remüs (Florin), a 9th century saint of the Vinschgau Valley. (Interestingly, also the Patron Saint of chimney sweeps and firefighters.)
Florian lived in the time of the Roman emperors Diocletian and Mazimian, and was commander of the imperial army in the Roman province of Noricum. In addition to his military duties, he was also responsible for organizing firefighting brigades. Rather than surrender to the eradication of Christianity under Aquilinus he cheerfully accepted beating and torture and was ultimately executed by drowning with a stone tied around his neck – yep, thought I’d share this cheery bit of historical trivia
The Government Building
Vaduz Castle
Vaduz Castle was first built some 700 years ago. Since 1712 it has been in the possession of the Prince of Liechtenstein. Since 1938, the castle has been the primary residence of Liechtenstein's Royal Family. It is not open to tourists.
We spent time wandering the streets and doing some tourist shopping. We were in luck and also located a small supermarket so we were well stocked up for the next few days. After a spot of morning tea (and a very expensive but much needed cappuccino for me) we left Vaduz behind us and in less than 5 minutes had crossed the border into Switzerland.
Success at last!
Ah, Switzerland, so many winding roads, enormous mountains, sweeping valleys and photo opportunities! Having that avomine was really paying off as I was able to multitask fulfilling my navigational and photographic duties with ease. Our route took us along the edge of Lake Walensee, past Lake Zurich (Zurichsee) and around via Lake Luzern (Vierwald), which is a glacial lake formed during the last ice age.
Lake Walensee
We stopped for lunch at a hilltop services near Giswil, which included a fantastic playground and, of course, amazing views. Time for another spot of trivia with the park dedicated to the memory Ruedi Rymann, yodler, sportsman and farmer: born in Sarnen in 1933; died in Giswil in 2008.
If you put aside the Toblerone and cuckoo clock clichés, you would be hard pressed to find a more thoroughly Swiss archetype. His "Dr Schacher Seppli", a revisiting of a traditional song, became – and remains – a much-requested staple of Swiss radio broadcasting (check it out on you tube if you dare!). Whilst we did not purchase a cuckoo clock, we did grab a bar of Toblerone for the road but decided to skip the large array of yodeling CDs on sale.
Nathan shared the view with Ruedi but passed up the yodeling opportunity!
How’s that for a playground with a view!
Of course, no services is complete without mountain goats!
The afternoon drive dished up more winding roads, amazing views and long tunnels galore.
At Sarnersee
Probably the most scenic stop was at the lookout above Lungern. The village of Lungern lies 750 metres above sea level on the lake of Lungern and at the foot of the Brünig Pass. It is the highest village of the Sarneraa-Valley, and is situated in a basin that is open only to the north and is surrounded on all other sides by steep and woody inclinations and rocks. I think the pictures of this little valley speak for themselves!
Just when we thought the roads couldn’t get any more challenging we drove under a sheer ledge of rock and into a tunnel that, whilst only 2 km in length, was like driving down a helter skelter as it wrapped around itself tightly on its steep down hill path. Onwards past Lake Brienz (Brienzersee) just north of the Alps with Interlaken lying to the southwest. The shores are steep, and there is almost no shallow water in the entire lake.
Duck!
With no bookings for this evening we simply followed our nose and headed towards the reference of Jungfrau. The Jungfrau (German: "maiden/virgin") is one of the main summits in the Bernese Alps Together with the Eiger (Ogre) and Mönch (Monk), the Jungfrau forms a massive wall overlooking the Bernese Oberland and is considered one of the most emblematic sights of the Swiss Alps. Not a bad choice of destination I believe!
We simply followed signs to a camp ground and ended up at Camping Jungrau near the small township of Lauterbrunnen. Lauterbrunnen lies at the bottom of a hanging or U-shaped valley that extends south and then south-westwards from the village to meet the 8 kilometers Lauterbrunnen Wall. The valley of Lauterbrunnen (Lauterbrunnental) is one of the deepest in the Alpine chain when compared with the height of the mountains that rise directly on either side. It is a true cleft, rarely more than one kilometre in width, between limestones precipices, sometimes quite perpendicular, everywhere of extreme steepness. It is to this form of the valley that it owes the numerous waterfalls from which it derives its name. According to locals, the name Lauterbrunnen is a combination of lauter meaning many, and brunnen meaning spring, fountain, or well. However, there is considerable dispute about the meaning of 'lauter', with some translating it as louder and others as clear, bright, or clean with the area sometimes known as Valley of Loud Waters or the Valley of the 72 Waterfalls.
The Lauterbrunnen valley also provided the pictorial model for Tolkien’s sketches and watercolours of the fictitious valley of Rivendell, and possibly also the name of the Bruinen river (meaning 'Loudwater') which flowed through it.
Lauterbrunnen featured in several scenes from the 1969 James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, including a car chase in which Bond (played for the only time by George Lazenby of Queanbeayan fame) was driven away from henchmen of Blofeld by his girlfriend in a dramatic pursuit which culminated in them shaking off the pursuers in a stock car race. (more Bond to follow during Birthday Fest 2011)
Camping Jungrau offered “…the assurance of being the ideal host in this impressive but intact mountainside of the Jungfrau Region…we are quite pleased at the prospects of hosting you in Lauterbrunnen.” Sounded fine by us. Our allocated site was flat and dry and right next to a tunnel that led to fantastically appointed facilities with 24 hour Swiss radio as entertainment (handy on that midnight walk!)
With the Staubbach Falls behind us
We wasted no time in donning raincoats and heading out to explore the valley. Along our path were the streams descending from adjoining mountains, which, on reaching the verge of the rocky walls of the valley, formed cascades so high that they were almost lost in spray before they reached the level of the valley. The most famous of these are the Staubbach Falls with the height of the cascade between 240m and 270 m, making them one of the highest single unbroken falls in Europe.
Given tomorrow was Nathan’s birthday we decided to go all out tonight and dine at the camp restaurant “Weidstübli”. As we were in Switzerland it seemed only right to sample some traditional dishes. Nathan chose a Rösti dish which is similar to a hash brown. It has given its name to the "Rösti ditch", the imaginary line of cultural demarcation between the German and French regions of Switzerland. A rosti falls on the German side of the ditch. I chose Älplermagronen: (Alpine herdsman's macaroni) a frugal all-in-one dish making use of the ingredients the herdsmen had at hand in their alpine cottages: macaroni, potatoes, onions, small pieces of bacon, and melted cheese. Traditionally Älplermagronen is served with applesauce instead of vegetables or salad and I can attest to it being very tasty. Abbey selected another traditional pasta dish with a mushroom sauce whilst Zac went all out with a cheeseburger and chips. Naturally the kids chose dessert with Abbey lucking in with vanilla ice cream served in a Pingu head.
How cute, cow pictures in Switzerland!
In an effort to walk off dinner we took a stroll into town then took the winding uphill path that brought us out under the Staubbach Falls. It was then time to head back to camp for showers and bed in preparation for tomorrow’s big event.
Under the Staubbach Falls
Beautiful scenery have never see water as blue as that not even in N.Z.
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